By Ellie Malmin|March 5th, 2015
Do Eyelash Extensions Cause Lash Damage?
For those of you who want to or are thinking about getting eyelash extensions and for those of you performing eyelash extensions, this discussion is for you. So many of you have the number one question about eyelash extensions and it needs to be answered. That questions is overwhelmingly, “Do eyelash extensions cause lash damage?”. Let me start by saying that damage occurs when the lashes are applied and/or removed incorrectly.
A Little Eyelash Extension History
Extensions for eyelashes came out on the market between 2004 and 2005. At that time, some misconceptions about eyelash extensions developed from misinformation given such as the length of time eyelash extensions would last. For instance, some people were told eyelash extensions would last two to three months. This is and was simply not true. Fills, inlays, refills and or touchups will be necessary every two to three weeks in order to maintain eyelash extensions for that amount of time or as long as the desired effect is needed/wanted.
We all have approximately 150 hair follicles where our lash hair grows from on each lash line. These lashes do not all follow a uniform growth; they are crossing and of varying lengths and stages of the natural lash growth cycle. If you were to take a picture of your lashes you would notice three distinct development phases…
- Antigen, also known as the Growth Phase (baby). Lashes are in this phase for around 30 to 45 days.
- Catagen, also known as the Transition Phase (teenager). This phase of the lash growth cycle last about 2-3 weeks.
- Telogen, also known as the Resting Phase (adult). Lashes in this phase are simply hanging out until they fall out and that can last up to 3 months.
Which Lash Phase/Length is Best for Lash Extension Adhesion?
The catagen/transition phase is most likely the best for lash extension adhesion, but there is a problem because we don’t know exactly when each lash developed into this phase. Also, on average only 20% of your lashes are at this point, which leaves 30 lashes to adhere to. That is most likely not going to give any one the desired lash lengthen and fullness effect. It is for this reason that we use both catagen and telogen phase lashes for lash extension. The lash extension itself is an actual extension of each individual lash within a suitable length for the natural lash to continue to comfortably progress in its own development process.
The Reason for a Trained Lashologist
The answer should be obvious, because you wouldn’t want anyone to apply adhesive that close to your eyes, but let’s get into the real reason. A non-trained lashologist would apply glue at the lash line and begin to adhere lashes within that area, whereas a trained lashologist would know to isolate each individual lash with tweezers and adhere from there. In the non-trained scenario, lash of varying phases would adhere to each other and become involved in a tug-of-war resulting in undue stress on the lash follicle and discomfort to the client/individual.
Lash-by-Lash or Volume Lash Extensions
The lash-by-lash technic is one that isolates each individual lash for extension adhesion where the lash extension hair size ranges in diameter from 0.10 to 0.25mm. This may or may not create the desired lash volume. For a fuller more dramatic effect Volume Lash Extensions were developed. This technic, also called Hollywood Lash among others, uses an individual adhesion point closer to the base on the natural lash where 2 to 6 lash extension are bundled and fan out. The thing to remember with Volume Lashes is that the hair size is basically 0.07mm in diameter this compensates for the number of extra hairs add with the final calculation ending close to 0.15mm total.
What is Lash Weight?
The weight of lashes used in lash extensions comes into play when differing between the materials they’re constructed with. For instance, polyester composed lashes as opposed to silk lashes. Both can serve the purpose of lash extension, but the silk lashes will weigh less, require less adhesive and cause less stress on the nature lash.
A little reiteration
What we know now…
- Lash lifecycle
- How not to have lash damage occurring on our lashes through extensions
Why do we have eyelashes? They are our body’s ideal form of defense keeping dirt and debris from getting into our eyes. That being stated, our lashes get messy and need cleansing just as the rest of our body does. When you add length and volume to your natural lashes, you’re going to collect more dust, dirt and debris from the air. That is why it’s very important to keep your lashes clean. Lashes should be cleansed once a day. If done properly the lashes should be able to be brushed through easily with a mascara wand and there shouldn’t be any tangles. Lashes can be washed with lint-free applicators and eyelash shampoo such as Lashologist Choice All in One Wash. After washing you’ll want to brush down and up on your lashes and use an applicator to get into the lash-line. When you dry your lashes you should use a tissue along the out edge softly follow the curve of the lash moving up.
Items and things to be cautious of
- Limit using cleansing products with fuzz such as cotton balls, swabs and Q-tips. These products have tiny hairs that can get into the lash line and cause possible discomfort and stress to the lashes.
- Believe it or not our precious pets can be a hindrance and cause of lash irritation with their tiny little hairs and pet dander.
- You’ll want to stay away from waterproof mascara.
Keep in mind that these lashes should behave and act like natural lashes because they are an extension of your own natural eyelashes. They should move and bend and be able to be combed just like your own natural eyelashes.
I hope you enjoyed this article, and if you have any questions about the process, feel free to email me at email@example.com.
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